Exploring Sri Lanka: 15-Day Itinerary, Solo Budget Tips, What makes a trip memorable, and How to avoid travel burnout
- Roxanne Malaluan
- May 13
- 11 min read
Traveling to Sri Lanka was a bit of a spontaneous decision. I made the booking just two weeks prior to the trip, which surprisingly allowed me more flexibility and helped me steer clear of excessive planning.
Filipinos need visa to travel to Sri Lanka. This costs only P2,700 and can be obtained online. Beware though there are many fake websites which will make you pay more than necessary!
Why did I pick Sri Lanka? The answer is straightforward - I've always been fascinated by its natural beauty and hiking trails. It's not a very popular destination, which meets my criteria for selecting my next travel spot.
Day 1-2: ANURADHAPURA
Upon arriving in Colombo airport, I immediately felt the hot temperature. I exhanged money near the exit and they offered a good conversion rate. I also bought sim card from Dialog which was reasonably priced (P272 with 20 gig good for 30 days).
At the airport exit after a 5 minute walk, there is minivan near the police station which goes to the city center. The trip took about 30 mins. Instead of staying in Colombo, I planned to go straight to Anuradhapura by train. I got this idea of laser back travel from Kevin Kelly, where you go to the farthest place upon arriving in a new country.
The train journey lasted a lengthy 8 hours. Although the travel time is slow, it's the quickest way for me to get a sense of the people, their culture, and to catch glimpses of the scenery along the route.
Sri Lanka, similar to the Philippines, is a developing nation with noticeable signs of poverty. Nevertheless, it boasts a wealth of natural wonders, particularly in its wildlife and jungles. The people, cuisine, and culture are reminiscent of those in its neighboring country, India.
When I reached Anuradhapura, I used the Pick Me App to arrange a tuk-tuk ride to my hotel. The fares through this app are quite affordable, and the service is prompt. The initial thing that caught my attention was how poorly lit and difficult to navigate the city was. It is also a quiet place, with the only noise coming from engines and vehicles.
The hotel I stayed at appeared quite old, but it was spacious. My host was kind enough to provide tips for my one-day city tour. He also drove me to the ticket counter, where I paid P1,715 for a tourist pass that allowed me to visit all the temples. Near the counter, I hired a motor driver for P1,000, who also served as my tour guide for the next four hours. He was very enthusiastic and shared a lot of historical notes and trivia, though sometimes I couldn't understand him.
We explored some historical stupas and temples, giving me a glimpse into the early days of Buddhism. In most temples, I had to walk barefoot as wearing shoes is not allowed out of respect for these sacred places. I imagined myself taking on a challenge to "walk on fire."
Jetavanaramaya, Ruwanweli Maha Seya, Thupawansaya, Kuttam Pokuna
We finished the tour after lunch, and I spent an hour unwinding by the lake, where many locals were bathing to beat the heat. At that moment, I thought to myself, I could have skipped the temple tour and simply explored on my own.
I wandered aimlessly without a particular destination until a local tour guide on a motorcycle offered to take me to a more secluded area. I visited Tissa Wewa, one of the largest and most serene man-made lakes in Anuradhapura. The final stop was Wessagiriya, which became my favorite part of the entire day tour in Anuradhapura. It was a breathtaking spot to watch the sunset and enjoy tranquil moments among the rock formations where Buddhist monks once meditated.
Wessagiriya
Spotted peackocks performing mating rituals
That evening, the hostel owner joined me for dinner at a popular local restaurant. I noticed that Sri Lankans have a great liking for their curry and rice. Typically, the rice is combined with meat and vegetables since the cost of meat is quite high. The portions are always generous enough for two people.
My Thoughts: If history and temples don't particularly captivate you and your time is limited, you might think about skipping Anuradhapura. But it's a nice addition to the typical Sri Lanka itinerary if you want to add an ancient feel to your journey.
Day 3-4: SIGIRIYA
I continued my journey to Sigiriya, which involved two bus rides totaling about 2 hours (first to Dambulla, then to Sigiriya). Since the bus stops aren't clearly marked, I asked a few locals and fellow travelers for directions.
After a 15-minute walk under the blazing sun, I reached my accommodation at Chanaka Holiday Inn, where I encountered some of the most cheerful and welcoming hosts. I stayed in a roomy and comfortable space for only P580. Sigiriya is famous for its jungle setting, and I found myself sharing the room with a small frog.
After taking a break, I decided to climb the famous Sigiriya Rock at 4:00 p.m., which is an ideal time to avoid the heat. The entrance fee was P2,000. Although you can hire a guide for P600, I found it unnecessary because the trails are well-marked, there are many tourists, and you rarely feel alone. The final part of the hike involved about 1,200 steps on a winding staircase. If you avoid looking down too often, you'll reach the top quickly; otherwise, you might stop and develop a fear of heights. The entire trip took me about two hours.
From the top of Sigiriya Rock, you can see a view of the famous Pidurangula Rock. I explored the ruins, which reminded me of Machu Picchu. These were remnants of the royal citadel built by a king in the 5th century.
Approaching Sigiriya Rock
Staircase up to Lion's Rock
Exploring the ruined fortress at the top of Sigiriya Rock
View of Pidurangula Rock from Sigiriya Rock
The next day, I began my trek to Pidurangula Rock before 6:00 a.m. to see the sunrise. The hike was moderately challenging, with numerous stairs, and as I approached the summit, I ran into a congestion of hikers. The trail was narrow, requiring us to pass one at a time, and I ended up waiting for around 30 minutes. The hotel owner, Chanaka, happily joined me on the hike. I was thankful because I wasn't very confident about climbing up and down the big rocks near the summit. The 360-degree view before sunrise was absolutely worth the early wake up call! From there, I could see Sigiriya Rock, which I had climbed the previous day.
After the hike, Chanaka took me on a 2-hour "tuktuk safari tour" during which we observed local wildlife, including peacocks, birds, and lakes. We also visited a Buddhist temple.
a Buddhist temple in Sigiriya
My Thoughts: Sigiriya is a must-visit especially for hikers and nature lovers. If you're trying to save money or are pressed for time, you might consider skipping Sigiriya Rock and opting for a hike up Pidurangula Rock instead. Pidurangula provides more stunning views and only costs an entrance fee of P50.
Day 5-7: DOLOSBAGE
From Sigiriya, I took a bus back to Dambulla and then to Kandy, a journey that lasted about 3 hours. Kandy is a large city with its own renowned tourist attractions. However, I chose to stay with a local Couchsurfing host who lives an hour's drive from the city.
My host lives in a spacious, old British colonial house and owns a tea plantation and factory. I had the opportunity to tour the tea factory and learn about the production and manufacturing of Ceylon tea.
A spacious room provided by my host
A tour at Mossville Tea Factory; Different sizes of tea leaves produce different tea quality
At his home, I encountered some locals who are friends with my host, along with others employed at the tea factory. I became friends with a young boy who works for him. We swam in a nearby dam, and he joined me on a brief yet demanding hike to Kabaragala Rock, the highest peak in Dolosbage. I also had a memorable adventure when I joined some locals hunt for wild deer at night. After a tiring day, I spent my third day simply relaxing and enjoying the mountain views from the house.
My new friend and travel buddy, Roshan
View of tea plantations on the way to Kabaragala Peak
Kabaragala Rock, the highest point of Dolosbage
My Reflections: This was the standout experience of my trip to Sri Lanka. It's far from the city and away from the tourist crowds. Much of what occurred here was spontaneous, and I only wish I could have extended my stay.
Day 8: NUWARA ELIYA
I took the scenic train ride to Nanu Oya, where you can enjoy Sri Lanka's natural beauty. I stood for the first two hours but was fortunate to find a seat for the next three hours. I made the mistake of not booking tickets in advance. To ensure you have a seat and better views, be sure to book ahead, as the seats fill up quickly.
Passengers standing on the train; one of the scenic views along the train journey.
Just a 5-minute tuk-tuk ride from Nanu Oya train station is Nuwara Eliya. Upon reaching Nuwara Eliya, I felt like I was in Baguio. The cooler temperatures made me buy a jacket that I hadn't packed. This small city can be explored in just half a day. It was raining when I arrived, but I still tried to see what was around town. I visited the famous post office and Gregory Lake, although the views were obscured by the rain.
I had planned to hike Horton Plains or World's End, but due to the rainy weather and the combined cost of transportation and entrance fees, which could total around P3,000, I decided to skip it. I also felt I had done enough hiking in the previous days and wanted to take it easy for the next few days.
My Thoughts: Skip Nuwara Eliya unless you're planning to hike Horton Plains. Allow for an extra day and hope for good weather. Don't forget to pack a jacket.
Day 9-11: ELLA
I took another famous but shorter scenic train ride from Nuwara Eliya to Ella. Since I had not booked a ticket, I was standing for the full 2-hour journey. I wanted to take videos and photos of the landscape, but there were too many passengers blocking my view. To improve your train ride experience, it's recommended to book tickets online ahead of time!
I used Booking.com to find a place to stay. However, after arriving at the first hostel, I decided to change accommodations due to poor ventilation and a steep, difficult road leading to it. The second place I found had good reviews, but it was a bit far from the town center. I suggest booking on the spot and checking out the location before settling in.
The next day, I started my hike at 6:00 to see the sunrise from Little Adam's Peak. I heard about the larger Adam's Peak, but when I found out that the hike required a midnight start, I decided to skip it. The trek was brief and straightforward and only took 30 minutes to the top. Little Adam's Peak provides stunning, panoramic views of Ella.
After the hike, my host took me on a tour of the famous Nine Arches Bridge. We arrived at 9:30 am, and it was already crowded with tourists. If you want to capture an iconic photo without the hassle of editing people out later, it's best to go earlier.
Just 30 minutes away is another popular spot—Ravana Falls, which can be seen from the road. There are many food stalls, making it hard to miss. However, be warned that there are monkeys here that might steal your food, as happened to me when I bought corn.
I decided to extend my stay in Ella by another day to explore some waterfalls. Many of the best waterfalls are situated far from the city, making it expensive to visit them alone (at least P1,000 by tuk-tuk). Even after negotiating, the price remained too high, so I sought out other travelers to split the cost. Although you can take the cheaper bus to reach Palewalla, we heard about a landslide that day which made the roads impassable. Fortunately, I found another traveler via Couchsurfing. We shared the P1,200 roundtrip tuktuk fare and decided to visit Pallewela Falls.
After approximately 30 minutes, we arrived at the jump-off point, but we still needed to do a moderately challenging hike for another 15 minutes to get to the falls. We each paid an entrance fee of P20. Upon our arrival, we had the waterfalls to ourselves where we enjoyed a very refreshing swim. A short time later, other tourists arrived, but it wasn't very crowded.
On our return journey, our driver made a quick detour to a herbal garden. The owner explained that it was a free government initiative. We were given a brief tour showcasing Sri Lanka's renowned herbal plants. We enjoyed a complimentary massage, and although it wasn't mandatory, we chose to purchase some items from their store as a gesture of appreciation. I ended up buying sandalwood oil, herbal detox tablets, and herbal toothpaste for a total of P2,500. Somebody mentioned that this is a common scam across the country, so be cautious!
Another popular hike in Ella is Ella Rock, which is more challenging. However, I chose to skip it and simply relaxed after the waterfall tour.
My Thoughts: Ella is a must-see destination in Sri Lanka. There are lots of waterfalls and hikes to choose from. Know the public transport options in advance to save on costs. Do not be fooled by "FREE" tours.
Day 12-14: POLHENA BEACH, MATARA
A direct bus runs from Ella town to Matara, and the trip took approximately 5 hours. I had planned to stay with another Couchsurfing host residing near Polhena Beach. I was advised by my CS host in Dolosbage to avoid Mirissa and Unawatuna Beach due to the heavy presence of Russian tourists. Therefore, I chose Polhena, which is less touristy and has a less crowded beach.
My host was friendly and generous, allowing me to stay for free for three nights. I also met another Filipino traveler through Couchsurfing, and we spent time together throughout my stay in Matara. Often, when traveling solo, I encounter other solo travelers and rarely find myself alone. We explored the city and went swimming, but most of the time we just relaxing and chilling. On my last day, I went snorkeling and spotted some turtles. It was low tide, and the water was somewhat murky.
I had different expectations about Polhena Beach. I suddenly missed the beaches in the Philippines and felt prouder of our own beaches.
The only negative experience I had was getting a lot of insect bites and feeling itchy throughout my stay. It was really hot, and my accommodation didn't have air conditioning. Despite these, I was glad to meet new travel friends which made the trip memorable
The broken bdridge to Paravi Duwa Tempe in Matara, Newfound friends in Matara
My Thoughts: If you're accustomed to beaches in the Philippines, you might want to pass on Matara. Opt for a room with air conditioning and bring stronger insect repellents.
Day 15-16: GALLE/NEGOMBO
From Matara, I took a one-hour bus ride to Galle. I believe the numerous bus and train journeys over the two weeks caused me travel stress and fatigue. Additionally, it was uncomfortably hot in Galle, so I didn't explore much and decided to stay in the hotel.
The next day, I stayed in Negombo as it was closer to the Colombo airport. It is also near walking distance from the beach but I just chose to relax and unwind in the hostel.
My Final Thoughts
From my past experiences, travel fatigue tends to occur after about 10 days of continuous movement. Rather than following a tightly packed itinerary, it's more sensible to select a few destinations and spend more time at each one. Make sure to include rest days, particularly when your plans involve multiple hikes and long journeys between locations.
Often, the most memorable moments are those that happen spontaneously, so be open to them. If you're a meticulous travel planner like I am, don't hesitate to leave space for unexpected surprises during your trip. Additionally, what makes every journey unforgettable are the people you encounter and the new connections you can form with individuals from all ages and backgrounds.
TOTAL EXPENSES
RT airfare via AIR ASIA (March 2025, with layover in KL) | P25,269 |
E-Visa | P2,769 |
Travel Tax | P1,620 |
Sim Card (Dialog - 20 gig for 30 days) | P272 |
Food (meals and snacks) | P7,686 |
Accomodations (hotels and hostels) | P5,382 |
Transportation (train, bus, tuktuk) | P4,973 |
Entrance Fees and Tour Guide Fee | P5,552 |
Shopping (souvenirs, herbal stuff, jacket, toiletries) | P3,772 |
TOTAL | P57,298 |
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